Living in the Rust Belt

Common Rustproofing Questions, Myths, and Concerns.

I just bought a new vehicle, and the dealership says not to worry because my new vehicle won’t rust, is that true?

No. Dealers often mislead customers with this statement. They only reference the word RUST and fail to mention CORROSION. This is because many new vehicles, including trucks, now have their bodies made with aluminum. Although its true aluminum doesn’t RUST, it does corrode. This often leaves visible defects like raised wavy lines under the vehicle’s painted surface or pieces of paint flaking off with white powder found underneath. Additionally, the majority of vehicle frames are still made of steel and can still rust. Even though vehicle bodies and frames are Zinc dipped when they are made, they are still just as susceptible to rust and corrosion today. Click here to (See the Science behind Rust and Corrosion).

My dealer says Rustproofing and/or Undercoating my vehicle will void my warranty unless they do it at the dealership or I use their authorized vendor. Is this true?

NO. Rustproofing and/or Undercoating a vehicle won’t void your warranty. Additionally, many dealers aren’t using ISO or OEM approved products or vendors in order to add a greater profit margin to their service.

We use Automotive International (AI) Valugard brand and its military-approved products. These meet or exceed OEM specs and are also recommended by many major auto manufacturers including General Motors, Chrysler, Ford, Hyundai, Mazda, Nissan, Kia, Mitsubishi, and Heil. Automotive International (AI) products are featured in many technical service bulletins issued by vehicle manufacturers and often marketed under their private label.

I have called several local rustproofing and undercoating companies and each claim theirs is the best. They each seem to be using different types of protection including Rubberized, Asphalt-Based, Wax/Paraffin-based, and Oil-Based. Which is the best type to use?

Over the past 20 years, protective coatings have drastically changed. Although Rubberized undercoatings can still be purchased in individual spray cans at most auto parts stores, they are rarely used in professional settings. This is because the rubber holds moisture and can even promote rust growth.

Asphalt-based coatings are typically cheaper low quality coating products and often have issues with adhesion, flaking and cracking. They are often used because they provide the retailer with higher margins and can often create a continued revenue stream. This is because the retailer often requires annual inspections and touchups to keep the warranty active due to known issues with flaking and cracking.

Wax/Paraffin-Based Rustproofing is the preferred coating for new vehicles, especially before they have seen one or two winters of salt and/or hydrochloride. Most manufacturers and OEMs have endorsed it as the preferred product to use. Paraffins are a hard pliable and self-healing coating that seals metal panels from the elements while repelling water away from the coating and metal surface. It also provides superior adhesion. Paraffin-Based coatings are typically applied in two different ways depending on where they are applied. The vehicle’s interior panels are sprayed with a special atomizing Paraffin formula that creates a fog inside the panel, creating a continuous coating that hardens as a uniform pliable self-healing protective barrier. The exterior or underbody of the vehicle is sprayed with a dense, thicker pliable self-healing paraffin that, when dry, allows it to withstand abuse from road debris. Click here to learn more about our Parraffin based Rustproofing (Valugard)

Oil-Based rustproofing is the preferred coating for used vehicles, but can be used on new ones as well. Oil-Based coatings offer superior protection for used vehicles because used vehicles typically have seen multiple winters with salt and/or sodium chloride exposure, thus causing rust at its earliest stages. Oil-Based coatings absorb into metal, including rusted metal, creating a seamless barrier between the metal and its environment cutting off moisture and oxygen. Additionally, this barrier has highly effective corrosion inhibitors. The corrosion inhibitors form and adsorb (or bond) to the metal surfaces and this microscopic layer acts like a series of tiny umbrellas, shielding the surfaces from water molecules. Just as a car battery will not work without its electrolyte, metal corrosion will not occur if moisture does not come in contact with the metal essentially stopping rust growth in its tracks. Because it is an oil and can be worn/washed away over time, two different viscosities are often used. The first is usually very thin, with the consistency of WD-40, and is used in all internal panels. The second is more of a grease-like substance. This makes it thicker and harder to remove with soap and high-pressure water from a carwash. It is used on the underbody or chassis of the car. Because oil can be removed over time, this type of rustproofing usually requires an annual reapplication. Additionally, it tends to drip from the panels for several days after an application. But it can be cleaned off the vehicle’s paint or a driveway with Dawn soap and water. Click here to Learn more about our Oil Based Rustproofing (Rust Check)

My local rustproofing shop says it’s never too late to just undercoat and protect my vehicle and that it will stop the rust in its tracks. Is that true?

NO. Traditional hard protective coatings placed directly over rust do not stop rust from continuing to grow. Even though protective coatings, like an undercoating or cavity wax, can temporarily cover and hide rust, they do not prevent the underlying metal from continuing to rust. In some cases, they can trap moisture and accelerate rusting, like when they are not properly prepared with a rust-inhibiting converter before the hard coating is applied. Oil-Based rustproofing is often the most economical choice when rust is present because its corrosion inhibitors absorb into metal, including rusted metal, creating a seamless barrier between the metal and its environment cutting off moisture and oxygen. Millennium offers two options for older vehicles, which depend on age and visibility of rust. (Click Here to learn about our service options).

I just bought a used vehicle from the South or West Coast where vehicles don’t rust. What should I do to protect it?

Vehicles from these areas are usually in great condition and have little to no noticeable rust inside their body panels. However, once introduced to Midwest winters, they too will be susceptible to rust and corrosion. Depending on the vehicle’s age and value, we offer several different affordable rustproofing options for a vehicle like this. (Click Here to learn about our service options).

What is a Rust Converter and what is my best option for stopping rust?

Rust Converter is a solution that works by chemically reacting with iron oxide on a metal surface, transforming it into a stable, inert compound that prevents further corrosion. It essentially "converts" the rust into a protective barrier that can be coated over with an additional coating, which prevents rust from starting again. The rust-conversion process creates a dark-colored layer when interacting with rust, stopping its spread and providing a base for the additional coatings.

Why is Rust Conversion the best option:

• Rust Converters:

These can be applied to any rusted surface, including those inside a vehicle’s body panel. The rust converter's active ingredients (like phosphoric acid or tannic acid) chemically react with the iron oxide, forming a new compound, often appearing as a black layer. This layer is, to a lesser extent, still susceptible to further oxidation. That is why our process involves a secondary top coating for additional protection from rust and corrosion.

• Rust Removers:

These actively dissolve rust and will eat/dissolve other non-metal components such as plastic, rubber, paint, and vehicle wiring. Rust Removers are typically used in full-vehicle restorations where the remover can be contained or controlled to only attack the affected rusted components. It can be completely removed/neutralized after it is applied to prevent it from continuing to dissolve good components.

• Sand/Media Blasting or Grinding and Sanding:

Sand or Media Blasting can be easily applied to open areas; however, it is difficult to use in tight areas and/or inside inner vehicle body panels. Additionally, blasting harms vehicle wiring and other non-metal components. This makes it more suitable for partial vehicle restorations, where panels or parts are typically cut out and removed before new metal is installed.

• METAL PANEL REPLACEMENT:

Panel replacement is always the best method for rust repair. However, it is often not practical and is very expensive. Replaced panels need to be painted to match the vehicle, and in some cases, require the old panel to be cut out and a new panel to be welded in.